The Good Pub Guide - Part 2

Well, way back in the sands of time, or last October to be precise, I began chronicling my progress in visiting over 180 pubs in Brighton and Hove in my adult life to date so far. In my first instalment, I cast both a critical and whimsical eye over 40 pubs in Brighton's Hanover and Seven Dials areas, the 2 main areas in which I have lived my 32 years to date. However, I never returned to speak about the other 140 joints I have visited and to tell some of the tales from those liquid inspired journeys.

Should you wish to recap on the first part of this guide, this can be read by following this link - http://joeinbrightonblogs.blogspot.com/2010/10/good-pub-guide-part-1.html

Before I move on to speak about the second batch of pubs I have visited, which will focus on pubs in Brighton's North Laine and Lewes Road areas, there is a stop press to the first article as I subsequently visited another pub in one of the areas I reviewed. This wasn't just any old pub either, but one of Brighton's most well known boozers which had rather curiously escaped a contribution from my wallet before. I am talking about the favourite haunt of the ale connoisseur, The Evening Star.

Let's start with a swift half at the Evening Star before walking down the road into North Laine to continue this epic nostalgia trip.

41. The Evening Star
It is not often that I remember the exact date that I popped my cherry at a particular hostelry, so to speak. However, I can remember with great clarity the date when I finally set foot in the Evening Star after well over a decade of unintentional avoidance. Saturday 31 October 2010. Halloween to the witches and warlocks of the world. Kerching Day to retailers of white sheets and 'Scream' masks. I had been out for a few pleasant drinks with an old acquaintance during which we watched our respective favoured football teams play one another. I had more reason to be pleased with the outcome than he, but afterwards we pitched up at The Evening Star for some post-match refreshment. As a debutant at Brighton's most well renowned specialist ale establishment, I was keen to test out some of the house ales. But I was constantly distracted by some of the fellow customers' choice of seasonal attire, with hair of different colours, bulging eyes and fangs all on display. I was going to say that was just the bar staff, but that would be slanderous!

Memories of what drinks I actually did purchase that evening are a little bit hazy, but I think I may have gone for a dark stout (kind of along the lines of Guinness) followed by a pale, slightly fruity ale before deciding to call time and head home to rest my weary napper. In summary, the Evening Star was a small but very vibrant pub with plenty of character and characters in attendance. The in-house ales remain its unique selling point and while these are an acquired taste depending on the beer-holder's taste buds, they are definitely worth sampling at some point. I hope not to leave it for another 14 years before visiting again. Rating 7/10

NORTH LAINE
42. The Prince Albert - One of Brighton's most renowned music venues, The Albert is famously located at the very top of Trafalgar Street, just before the railway bridge leading up to Brighton Station. In recent years, the side wall has been decorated with an ever expanding collection of street artwork. This started with a portrait of John Peel, paying homage to both Peel and to the venue's commitment to showcasing alternative music, before latterly seeing further artwork depicting George Best and recently a Banksy entry showing two policemen kissing. This all adds to the Albert's slightly arty image, embraced by its clientele. The biggest selling point for the venue is its upstairs live music room, with local bands performing there on at least two nights of the week. This is where local bands such as The Levellers and Kooks performed in their formative days. On such nights, an upstairs bar is often also opened to save the inconvenience of popping downstairs for a refreshment between songs. In truth, if you strip away the music, The Albert is a slightly dingy and ordinary outfit and the drinks are not the cheapest on offer in the city. But there is a vibrancy about the place on a music night with people able to drink outside on the street, giving The Albert a strangely continental feel on such occasions. If you like live music, there are few better places to attend in the city. Rating 6/10

43. The Lord Nelson - At the last count, there were 4 pubs and 1 bar on Trafalgar Street in Brighton, all of which are completely contrasting in clientele and character. If the revolution was being planned in the Albert, then it would likely disturb the peace at the Nelson. Another one of the Harvey's pubs in Brighton, the Nelson is generally a more sedate, traditional ale drinker's haunt with an unusual layout. The front end of the bar is very cramped with just a couple of 'snugs' where people can be seated. This means it can be a Goldfish Bowl on a Saturday when it is a popular pre-match meeting point for Brighton & Hove Albion supporters. Round the back of the bar, however, there is further seating and there is also a heated patio beyond these seats. Getting a seat on weekend evenings can sometimes be troublesome, but in the week it generally tends to be a spit and sawdust convention popular with some older, eccentric characters. If you are one of those sorts of people that bemoans the lack of classic watering holes that have been replaced by trendy wine bars, then the Lord Nelson will be up your alley. It is a no-frills venue with no gizmos or gadgets, but it is all the better for that, although a lick of paint wouldn't go amiss. Rating 7/10

44. The Great Eastern - As the name might suggest, this pub which is over 200 years old, has close links with the railway which traditionally provided the pub with a good number of its regulars, helped by its proximity to Brighton Station. The pub is situated towards the bottom of Trafalgar Street and much like the Nelson is a largely unspoilt drinking hole. The pub has very narrow gangways so swinging a cat on a Friday night would be a problem for those short of feelings for felines. But that does not detract from its charm. It is a few years since I last paid a visit, but I have fond memories of nights of debauchery in my 20s that started in this pub. There was an old railway bell prop situated next to the bookcase at the back of the pub which of course was rung many a time by my posse because, like Mount Everest, it was there. Hopefully I will return one day without auditioning as a campanologist. Rating 8/10

45. The George - Directly opposite the Great Eastern is The George, noted as the gastro-pub of choice for those of a vegetarian persuasion. Not being a vegetarian myself, I tend to head elsewhere for a pub lunch, but nonetheless I have sampled The George's food on a few occasions and have to say that it is quite nourishing. You certainly cannot complain about the portions. The pub has had a lick of paint over it since I last attended, but the pub is largely unspoilt. More spacious than the other pubs on the same street, it can sometimes suffer from being deserted during the week. Back in the day, it used to run a tricky pub quiz on a Sunday night, although I think this was discontinued some time ago. Nothing particularly wrong with The George, but nothing outstandingly right either. A tiny bit bland, but you can do worse. Rating 6/10

46. Room 101 - An Orwellian inspired, former trendy bar that was found on Trafalgar Street and which has now been 'The Golden Dragon' Chinese restaurant for pushing on for a decade. Only went there once when I enjoyed a fun night out with some university friends in the autumn of 2000. The night was enjoyable more for the company, than the location. Rating 4/10

47. More Bar - I have vague recollection of staggering into this joint late at night on a works drinks expedition some Friday night about 4 years ago and I think shots might even have been consumed. Other than that, I have little to recommend or to deter you from the place due to my lack of memory of the evening. Rating 5/10

48. The Office - Back in days of yore, this pub was the notorious 'Green Dragon', one of Brighton's oldest pubs and also one of its most troubled, as it had once been the scene of a murder. When a new brewery chain took it on, they felt that a rebranding was the order of the day and so it became 'The Office', presumably to appeal to the male clerical worker who could always tell his loved one that he still had business to attend to at the office. After work drinkers seem to be its main clientele, but otherwise this is quite a soulless pub, out of keeping in a location that is slap bang in the middle of one of Brighton's most colourful and bohemian backstreet thoroughfares. For colour and humour, visit the fancy dress shop next door. Some of the wigs are probably cheaper than a pint at The Office as well. Rating 4/10

49. Basketmakers Arms - If you were to peruse the pages of the latest Real Ale Guide, the chances are that this pub would post one of the highest scores in the Brighton and Hove area. There is good reason for this, which is that the pub, owned by Youngs these days, is very much a paradise for the ale drinker with a number of local ales available on tap inside. It is also situated on Gloucester Road, a road that is something of a hidden gem in North Laine in comparison to the noisier and busier parallel roads of Trafalgar Street and North Road. All good so far, but the Basketmakers is a tiny bit underwhelming for me. It certainly isn't short of patronage and it makes for a lively atmosphere on most nights of the week, but especially at weekends. But if comfort is your thing, this pub isn't necessarily for you. The pub can get very cramped and this sometimes means having to drink outside when it gets very busy, and in the absence of a beer garden, this means hanging out in Smokers' Corner and taking the inhalations associated with the product. Not a bad pub by any means, but just not as good as it likes to think it is. Rating 6/10

50. The Eagle - Almost opposite the Basketmakers is the Eagle and it is not just the side of the road on which it is diametrically opposed to the Basketmakers. The Eagle is the original name of the establishment, which it reverted back to around 10 years ago after having been renamed 'The George Beard' for a number of years, during which time it had been owned by the same brewery as the Basketmakers and therefore also enjoyed a similar clientele. Perhaps sensing that there were only so many ale drinkers to go round in the vicinity, the pub rebranded upon gaining new ownership and became something of a student friendly joint. It also gained notoriety for its in-house bakery, although I think this may have now closed down following a subsequent refurbishment, which has also seen the atmospheric fish tanks removed. Back in those glorious, halcyon days of 2003, I attended a pub quiz on a Monday night there for a while, which very much tapped into its student customer base. This excursion stopped after a couple of months, not helped by the price of drinks. Inflation has naturally driven these prices up still further since, and is one of my major criticisms of a pub that has the potential to be far better than it is. It is not an easy place to hold a conversation in either, even on nights when it is sparsely attended. Rating 5/10

51. The Pond - Further up Gloucester Road, this small pub is situated round the back of Royal Mail's sorting offices and so consequently is a popular haunt for posties finishing their shift. I have only been to the pub on a couple of occasions when with friends, but due to the size of the pub, it is one of those places that you would only go to for a couple of swift halves before proceeding to the next port of call. Still, it is a pleasant and hospitable enough place and with a small courtyard for outdoor drinking on a summer's day. Not that you tend to get much people traffic to observe walking along the generally tranquil Gloucester Road. Rating 5/10

52. Three Jolly Butchers - Another small pub, this time in the next street along, the far busier North Road. This pub has a thriving lunchtime trade, helped by having an adjoining deli bar to deal with the lunchtime sandwich orders. The pub itself is also popular at lunchtime, with workers from local office blocks attending to have a liquid lunch. I can vouch that the food menu is impressive and the quality of service is also good. Outside of the lunch hour, it is a pub that you would again classify as a place to stop off for a quick drink before going somewhere with more hustle and bustle, but 3JB is an unpretentious and friendly pub that does not pretend to be anything it is not. Rating 7/10

53. Heart & Hand - One of the United Ales chain's pubs, complete with the distinctive green brick exterior. This pub is something of a retro music haunt frequented by 60s swingers and hippies, as well as the city's younger wave of musicians and poets. This perhaps should not come as a surprise given that it is situated next door to the local guitar and keyboard shop. The pub is small, but perfectly formed with a laid back ambience with some further seating outside. I have only visited on a couple of occasions, but this is not a negative reflection of the place. Rating 7/10

54. Fountain Head - A fairly recent addition to the local pub trail, the Fountain Head is a curious fusion of a homely, traditional pub and a modern, thriving gastro-bar. On a cold, autumnal evening, it is the perfect place to seek sanctuary to luxuriate on the comfy sofas in front of a log fire. In the summertime, there are outdoor benches to take in the rays. There is also an extensive food menu, provided at reasonable prices. If only the same were true of the drinks, not a huge amount of options and some very steep prices. Guinness was nearly £4 on my last visit, which even by Brighton standards is expensive. The Fountain Head is certainly a nocturnal establishment, generally always busy after dark but deserted in the daytime. Gripes about the price of grog aside, it has a lot going for it, especially for a comparative newcomer. Rating 7/10

55. Earth & Stars - There are two features about this pub which make it stand out from the competition. Firstly, it is Brighton's premier organic pub, with the vast majority of its on tap beers and lagers being organic. Secondly, it has 2 chalkboards outside which are personified with regularly chalked comments on upcoming events and even the weather. Given this undercurrent of quirkiness and humour, you would expect the Earth & Stars to be one of the top pubs in Brighton. Yet, beneath its quirky and charms and sound principles, the Earth & Stars is a little disappointing. The novelty of organic beer somewhat wears off if you are not naturally inclined to drink that on a regular basis. The non-organic options are limited. It is also a small venue, so not the place to go if you want the guarantee of a seat. That said, you will usually find the place packed to the rafters towards the end of the week, which is usually an encouraging sign. Rating 5/10

56. William the Fourth - Named after a monarch that resided in the Royal Pavilion just down the road, William IV is situated on the corner of Church Street and Bond Street and is somewhat against the grain in that corner of town in that it is a very old fashioned spit and sawdust pub, both in its outward appearance and its clientele. The net result of this is that while other pubs in the area come alive at night, this place is deserted, while in the daytime it has its locals that support it while other hostelries are short of punters. The pub itself is decidedly dull and a little bit antiquated. As such, I would advise visiting some more vibrant outposts in the vicinity before stopping off here. Rating 4/10

57. The Mash Tun - Previously went by a far more sober pub name, the name of which escapes me, The Mash Tun rebrand occurred in the late 1990s in order to attract a younger core customer base. Despite the aberration of a name, or maybe because of it, The Mash Tun has become an iconic city centre pub in just a few years with the city's professionals and students both regularly patronising the venue. The Mash Tun isn't just a 'yoof' pub though and there is something here for most drinkers. It is a popular start of evening venue to go for quick drinks, especially given its proximity to The Dome and Theatre Royal, or it can be a place to stick around for the duration. Some enjoyable evenings have been spent at the Mash Tun and as with its next door neighbour Fitzherberts, it is an ideal place to people watch if drinking outside. Can get quite busy and crowded at weekends, so worth getting to early in the evening, but overall there is much to recommend about the Tun. One for the shortlist. Rating 9/10

58. Fitzherberts - Literally next door to the Mash Tun, it makes you wonder how anyone allowed two competing pubs to be housed next to one another. I have frequented Fitzherberts on far fewer occasions than its neighbour, although they unsurprisingly have a lot in common. Not the largest of pubs, but there is plenty of space outside to drink, which is a popular choice in the summer months. In my experience, Fitz's doesn't quite have the same level of atmosphere that the Mash Tun enjoys, but it is still in a prime location and has buckets of vibrancy. Worth a visit. Rating 7/10

59. The Waggon & Horses - Across the road from the Tun and Fitz's is the Waggon & Horses, which I think previously went by the name of 'The Volunteer' back in the sands of time. This is a good place to go for a large gathering due to the extensive outdoor seating, which often leads to people drinking their pints in the street, much as you might expect to see on continental Europe. A word of warning though, get there early. When planning a recent leaving do from my workplace, this seemed like a prime location, but even by 4:30 in the afternoon, all the outdoor seating was taken and this did not abate even 4 or 5 hours later. The inside to the pub is restricted for seating and is generally deserted when the weather is glorious other than at the bar. Has a more traditional feel than some of its neighbours and is largely a no-frills pub, although it does retain a jukebox in the corner. How so very 2001! Not a pub that gets huge fanfare, but it seems to retain its popularity, and with good reason. Rating 7/10

60. Riki Tiks - Not a pub, but more an American influenced trendy pre-club bar venue. Have only visited this place on two occasions if my recollection serves me right. My abiding memory was that the price of the drinks were unnecessarily high. If you want to go somewhere with loud music playing to get you in the mood before going to a club, you might appreciate this place. On the other hand, if you want to go somewhere that sells beer at an affordable price, go somewhere else. Rating 3/10

61. The Colonnade - This is the bar that is situated next door to Brighton's Theatre Royal and there is in fact a door that takes you from the bar-room through to the stage door. I only recall heading to The Colonnade on a couple of occasions, but in both instances, the bar was largely empty, not helped by there being a performance taking place at the time. The one abiding memory was of the montage of signed photographs of past performers who had stopped by which had pride of place on the wall. Curiously, this included a photograph of Jeffrey Archer! You'd have thought that someone would have had the foresight to hide that once he took up Her Majesty's invitation. I am tempted to return to see whether anyone has subsequently removed his photograph, but there would be little other reason to do so. Rating 4/10

62. Cocktail bar, New Road - I have temporarily forgotten the name of the bar in question, but there is a small cocktail bar situated upstairs next to the Italian restaurant at the end of New Road. Not that cocktails are usually my poison, but I have visited this establishment a couple of times with easily persuasive friends. The cocktails are meticulously served, which is just as well given the luxury prices! Not a lot else going on, but if cocktails are your thing then this is as good a place as any. Rating 4/10

Notable absentees: The Pedestrian Arms, Dorset Arms, The Black Horse, The Brighton Tavern

LEWES ROAD

63. The Race Hill Tavern - Now sight of a plush GP's surgery on the corner of Lewes Road and Park Crescent, this was formerly the sight of a train-wreck of a Courage pub. The Lewes Road area has always been blighted by a small minority of troublemakers in its pubs and sadly the Race Hill attracted more than its fair share. Most of my memories of the pub revolve around the pool table. I seem to recall some very competitive games of 'Killer' in my early 20s when some friends lived in the area. I also remember some of the people that would get on the pool table, recalling that I wouldn't have wanted to dispute the 1 shot on the black rule with them! Sadly, that aggro led to the Race Hill's demise, but leaving nostalgia aside, the pub is probably not greatly missed. Rating 3/10

64. The Park Crescent - During a spell in the early part of the noughties, a good friend of mine lived on Park Crescent and that meant I was fortunate enough to spend several enjoyable evenings in the Park Crescent. Back in the day, the pub ran a Sunday night pub quiz (I think it possibly still does) which our team of waifs and strays enjoyed mixed success in. One night I recall in particular that was successful was when a couple of extra players turned up who my friend and I encountered at a gig 2 nights before. They had flown over for the gig from Norway and were still in town on Sunday night and so joined us for the quiz. To add to the surreal nature of it all, a couple of questions about Norway came up and we ended up winning the quiz and the evening culminated in us sharing the prize of a bottle of wine looking out over the crescent. Quiz glory aside, there are plenty of other good things about the PC, not least its beer garden which is one of the best in Brighton, as well as its eclectic mix of beers. Its location makes it a favourite with student drinkers, but it always used to get a good mix of young and old customers. Sadly my friend has long departed the area and so it is some time since I last made a return visit to this old haunt. I know the pub has had a couple of refurbs in recent times, but I hope it retains its old character. Rating 9/10

65. The Franklin Tavern - I worked just off Lewes Road for the majority of the first half of the last decade and so this pub happened to be en route on my way home, meaning I frequented it more than was possibly healthy. One memory stands out which is of watching the Holland versus Italy penalty shoot-out from the Euro 2000 semi-final in this pub with another late finishing colleague. As a sports pub, the Franklin ticks the boxes and it also serves pretty decent pub grub. Sadly, it has always had one major flaw, which it has never rid itself of. That is the trouble element and maybe due to the closure of the Race Hill, this situation hasn't improved over the years, despite attempts to rebrand the pub. The Franklin has always had a raw edge to it, but as I grow older, I have more of an appreciation for how much I am prepared to compromise my safety when going out for a recreational drink. It is a shame because the Franklin could be a far better pub than it is, but the exposure to aggro has just increasingly made it a no-go area. Rating 5/10 when I first went there in 2000, 2/10 now

66. The Bugle - When I wrote the first instalment of this blog, I mentioned that backstreet pubs in Brighton are either hidden gems or hideous dives. The Bugle very much comes in the first category. What memories of this place! So many memories in fact, but for the purposes of keeping this synopsis brief, back in the early part of the 2000s, some friends of mine had a flatshare which resulted in The Bugle being their local. In fact, so local was it, that one of my friends once reckoned he recorded the time it took him to get from his living room, down the stairs, out the door and into the pub, presenting at the bar as being 30 seconds. Whether he could make the return journey at the end of the evening as fast is another matter. As the name suggests, The Bugle is an Irish pub, run by Irish owners and which regularly has live Irish bands playing in the bar on Wednesday and Saturday nights. It also has a piano near the gents' toilets, although I don't think it is for the public domain. Getting a good pint of Guinness was never a problem, back in 2002 I could even order one for £2! Oh for such opportunities now. It also had a no-football-talk policy, which I can't imagine was enforced as my friends would have been barred very early on! It's a couple of years since I last set foot in The Bugle, but it's one of those places that is unlikely to change much, especially all the while the present owners and its regulars remain. That Guinness won't cost £2 any more though, but I know it will be served well with the compulsory shamrock. Rating 9/10

67. Martha Gunn - The Upper Lewes Road in Brighton only has one pub along its whole stretch from Ditchling Road to the Vogue Gyratory and it is this pub, named after a woman of some local notoriety. Given its location, the Martha Gunn should attract a mixture of students, local workers looking for an after work refreshment and some local retired people. In the event, it can often attract nobody, due to having developed a reputation as being something of a dive. Difficult for me to confirm or deny this, as it is getting on for a decade since I last visited. What I do know, however, is that I won't be returning for lunch in a hurry. On my last visit during a lunch hour, circa 2003, I ordered lunch and a soft drink, only to wait 20 minutes for food and then was informed that the baguette I ordered had been dropped en route, so I was being made another. Another 15 minutes passed before I eventually got my order, by which time I was due back at the office. On the plus side, the Martha had a decent beer garden and also had a fiendish pool table, but its location means it has a tendency to attract the wrong type of customer. Rating 3/10

68. The Gladstone - A bright yellow relic of the psychedelic era, The Gladstone is paradoxically situated next to the Woodvale Crematorium. The pub is very much a haunt for local students and was well known for live DJ nights later on in the week. It is also a popular after work venue given its proximity to a couple of nearby offices, including the one I used to work in. The colour that is seen on the exterior of the pub is matched inside the pub as well and also in the beer garden, which is usually well attended when summer comes round. More outlandish than other pubs in the area and also largely free of the trouble that infests other pubs on Lewes Road, yet strangely it can be a soulless place. Certainly not a bad pub, but not somewhere to spend an entire evening. Rating 6/10

69. The Hartington - Another backstreet pub, this time tucked away on one of the streets that links Hartington Road to Elm Grove. The Hartington evokes certain similarities with The Hanover and The Pub With No Name over the other side of Elm Grove, particularly with its use of art as a means of providing the decor. Like one or two other pubs in Brighton (the Park Crescent and Reservoir spring to mind), it also has a shelf with newspapers to read, generally aimed at those of a higher brow. This pretty much encapsulates the demographic The Hartington is aiming at, the culturally influenced professional, usually with a family. A thinking man's Pub With No Name is a fair description, and like TPWNN it is a child friendly pub. My last visit was a couple of years ago and although the pub was almost empty that night, I found it a cosy place, which is ideal to meet in for a quiet drink or two. Rating 7/10

70. The Bear - So named due to being at the bottom of one of the longest roads and steepest hills in Brighton, Bear Road. I first attended The Bear in my university days after the exams and in all the intervening years since, the pub has barely changed, save for a few licks of paint. By far its greatest asset is its beer garden, although there are a range of pub games available for those who are that way inclined. An unspectacular, does the basics pub, which holds very few memories of note. Rating 5/10

71. The Hub (previously No Man's An Island) - At the last check, this pub had changed its name again to 'The Dugout', very much marketing itself as a sports bar just as it had in its guise as The Hub. Its original name was 'The Counting House', but a name change became necessary after it was the scene of a high profile murder in the early 1990s. When the rebranding came, it was a clever one, with the new name being 'No Man's An Island', a reference to the pub's location on a traffic island at the Vogue Gyratory. I liked the pub when it went under that name, it was a friendly, laid back place that was short on frills but generally had a good vibe. As 'The Hub', the vibe was more loud and boisterous, but it could get busy on a Saturday night, especially if there was a big match or big fight being televised on the screen. I assume it is more of the same as 'The Dugout', but I still feel its best days came before it rebranded as a sports bar. Rating 7/10 as No Man's, 5/10 as The Hub

72. The Newmarket Inn - Occasionally, going to a pub can be like visiting a town they forgot to shut down, as Morrissey once put it. Following the backstreet pub principle mentioned earlier, alas the Newmarket Inn, located in a satellite street off Bear Road, was a pub stuck in a time warp. The pub reminded me of 'The Marquess of Exeter' which I mentioned in the first instalment of this guide with plenty of spit and sawdust, sticky floors and generally a lack of love and attention given to the place. This was back in 2002, so it is quite possible that the pub has subsequently revamped, but I doubt it. A local's local, so don't go there unless you happen to be local yourself. Rating 2/10

73. The Lectern - As a former University of Brighton student based at the nearby Mithras House, many an afternoon and evening as an undergraduate was spent in The Lectern. A million tales of student debauchery could be told and would make for salacious memoirs, but let's adopt the Fight Club principle for now! Back when I first went in this pub on a cold winter's day in December 1998, it wasn't even called The Lectern. Back then it was still the humble old Royal Hussar, populated by a couple of old men and a dog and their food menu mainly consisted of barely edible, industrial strength ham sandwiches. A year later though, the pub took on new ownership and it rebranded as a student pub with an appropriate name to boot. To say that The Lectern was greater than the sum of its parts would be an understatement, but there was plenty to keep you going back with decent food, its legendary pool table, jukebox and underrated beer garden. It also had further seating upstairs. After leaving university, I frequented the pub again a couple of years later when the pub had realised that it needed to attract more than just its student core customers and had started to show live football at weekends and the atmosphere for some of the big matches I watched there has ranked among the best I have seen in a pub. I returned last year after a few years away to attend a benefit gig being staged upstairs and was pleased to see that the place had changed very little from when I had left it. When you consider that The Lectern has only been in existence as we know it for a decade, it has done really well to establish itself and to evolve as much as it has in that time. It will always have plenty of students propping up the bar and contributing towards their life stories in the years to come. Rating 8/10


That's the 2nd instalment completed. In the third part, I will move on to discuss the pubs and bars I have visited in the London Road, Level and Lanes areas of Brighton.

The good pub guide - Part 1

Whilst engaging in an exchange of bar-room musings with a friend of mine, we got into talking about pubs. During the conversation, my friend asked me how many pubs and bars within Brighton and Hove I had ventured into in my life on this planet up to now. This prompted me to go away and raid the old memory bank and see if I could hit upon something like a definitive ball park figure. I hope that over the course of this blog, I will be able to provide exactly that, as well as sharing some of my experiences and memories of pubs that I have been in and saying which of Brighton and Hove's hostelries are worth frequenting, and which should be given a wide berth.

Deciding on what should make the list though required some basic guidelines. The question I was posed was "how many pubs had I visited in Brighton and Hove", so it was only right and proper that the boundaries I confined my retrospective pub crawl to remained in that area. Therefore, pubs that I have visited in Shoreham-By-Sea, Lewes, Burgess Hill and Hassocks are not included in the tally. Portslade was the most obvious boundary to the west, while Telscombe Cliffs is as far as the eligibility criteria stretches to the east. The corridor around the bypass that includes Devils Dyke, Patcham and Falmer were what I settled on as being the appropriate boundary. As for the southern boundary, I figured that anything at the other end of the blue aquatic expanse would be French terra-firma.

The other main guideline was deciding on what establishments would be eligible for a listing. If all of the watering holes I had visited followed the convention of being a classic British spit and sawdust establishment, then finding a definitive figure would have been more straightforward. The issue that presented itself was that a number of said hostelries I have visited were borderline as to whether they were bars or nightclubs. In the end, I felt that I could only list places that essentially were bars with a club, rather than clubs with a bar. Hence, I have not included such joints as Oceana (or its predecessor Event II) or the Casablanca jazz club, but I have included a couple of bars with established club nights, such as Revolution (previously The Standard) and The Arc. I have also excluded restaurants from the tally, but I have included what you might term "gastro pubs" that I have visited.

There are also certain places where I have comsumed drinks for a bar, although the primary reason for being at the venue was for another activity. I am particularly thinking of sports venues where drinks were consumed as part of day's activity or after the activity had finished. I have decided that it would be wrong to exclude such venues from the overall tally, but I have decided not to provide any rating for these venues.

As you might expect, there are some establishments that have had a refit or a name change during my years of legal drinking. Some pubs in fact have had 2 or 3 name changes in that time. I have decided, for the purposes of clarity, to just list one entry for each venue, but make a reference to the other names the venue has had where that applies.

Despite having been to a good many pubs and bars in my hitherto fourteen years of legal drinking, upon tapping into my memory bank, it would appear that there are still a good number of pubs and bars within Brighton and Hove where I have yet to sample the core products.

I will list the pubs I have visited by each area of Brighton and Hove, along with a short summary and a rating. Without giving away the total pubs/bars I have visited at this juncture, this is likely to require 3 or 4 instalments in total.

So let's get down to business. This is thirsty work though, so I'll have a pint of Guinness regular from the tap, if you don't mind.

QUEENS PARK/HANOVER AREA
1. The Hanover - Older readers will recall that this pub was once called the Queens Park Tavern and it was my local all the while I lived at home. Strangely, given that it was a local, I never set foot in the place under its old guise. The pub had a bad reputation and it was not until the pub was re-opened and re-branded as The Hanover that I paid a visit. There are examples of name changes to pubs that ruin their character, but The Hanover has been greatly enhanced by the change. It has a relaxed, chilled out atmosphere and also does some good food, particularly at weekends. The pub is spacious and uncluttered and the bad days of the QPT are a hazy memory. Rating 8/10

2. Duke of Beaufort - Situated on the corner of Queens Park Road and Islingword Road, almost opposite the iconic Pepper Pot, the Duke is a no-frills pub that I think has had the same owners for the whole time since I first set foot in the establishment over 10 years ago. The pub is perhaps best known for having a Thai restaurant upstairs, although I cannot say that I have had the pleasure. The pub has all the usual pub amenities such as a big screen, digital jukebox and a pool table (it had one in its beer garden at one point) but on the downside, it has also inherited some of the clientele that previously frequented the Queens Park Tavern. Nothing terribly bad about the pub, but not as appealing as some other places that are nearby. Rating 4/10

3. Walmer Castle - If The Hanover is a prime example of how a pub can be positively transformed by a refit, then sadly the Walmer Castle is the polar opposite. I used to regard the Walmer Castle as the best of Hanover's many fine hostelries when it had a vibrant, outlandish exterior and a calm and relaxing interior, including two fish tanks which added well to the ambience. It was the perfect place to unwind on a slow Sunday after a heavy Saturday night. A refit late last year, however, has stripped the place of its character with the bright exterior replaced by a dull grey, while the inside has become a soulless and deserted place. Sad when it happens, but the Walmer has fallen upon hard times. Rating 8/10 pre-refit, 3/10 now

4. The Racehorse Inn - Pub at the junction of Queens Park Road and Elm Grove which has recently had a name change, with the new pub setting itself out to be a food oriented venue. I have not visited the new venue and in fact only visited its predecessor once, when I did not find the place to be a welcoming or luxuriating location. Rating 3/10

5. The Constant Service - This pub used to very deliberately set itself as a no-frills and no-gimmicks pub that just knew how to serve a good pint. In recent times, the pub has moved a little from its original standpoint and now has a couple of television screens that broadcast live sport. As a Harvey's pub, it also retains a following among the local real ale drinkers. Overall, a friendly and cheerful pub with a pleasant courtyard for drinking on those warm summer days. Rating 7/10

6. The Horse & Groom - Another example of a pub that never recovered from an ownership change. This used to be a regular haunt of mine on Sunday afternoons in the early part of the noughties for the Super Sunday football and a few pints of Boddingtons (a beer served in very few pubs in Brighton or Hove). The licensees had run the pub for over 10 years but when they moved out of the area around 5 years ago, sadly the pub's fortunes rapidly ran south. After an incident in which thieves attempted to steal beer from the cellar, it was long after that the pub closed altogether. A great shame as the H&G was a vibrant and lively alehouse when I first sampled it and it also had 2 memorable features that made it stand out. These being the deliberate wall of graffiti in the men's toilets and the lovely warm, open fire on winter days. Rating 7/10 pre-ownership change, 2/10 afterwards

7. The London Unity - This pub is a few doors down from the now closed Horse & Groom yet its clientele and atmosphere could almost be a million miles away. Whereas the H&G was the classic spit and sawdust establishment, The London Unity is well known as a vibrant, student oriented venue with regular live music and DJs playing at the venue. I have not visited the place for a few years now, but I can remember back in the day that it was a very cramped and busy venue on Friday nights when a DJ was playing. Despite this, the pub also retained a slightly homely feel, with a range of board games being available to play in the back room. If you dislike noisy pubs, this place is probably not for you, but it is definitely a place for the latest crop of freshers to check out. Rating 7/10

8. The Cobden Arms - I tend to find pubs situated in backstreets are either hidden gems or insular, cliquey dives that time forgot. Sadly, in the case of the Cobden Arms, my two visits have led me to believe that this place belongs in the second category. All of us at some time or another will have experienced that feeling of being stared at as a stranger on someone else's patch. This particular experience came when I visited the Cobden Arms for the first time. I was half expecting the landlord to set an Alsatian on me and force me to leave the premises due to me being this illegal alien invading their space. Avoid like the plague. Rating 1/10

9. Reservoir - Like the Cobden Arms, this place is found in one of the backstreets lying between Islingword Road and Elm Grove. Unlike the Cobden Arms, it is quite a decent watering hole, although first impressions could leave you feeling a little bit cold. The pub is a little bit soulless as it does not have the feel of a traditional pub and it is also a pub that is largely deserted during daylight hours. Yet, this strangely makes the Reservoir a good place to unwind for a quiet drink away from the hustle and bustle and it has a small, but perfectly formed beer garden. The place also tends to come alive on Friday and Saturday nights, with it being popular with young professionals and students. Not the most atmospheric of pubs, but it is quite a welcoming place to unwind for a couple of pints before heading somewhere bigger and brasher. Rating 7/10

10. The Pub With No Name - The pub with the identity crisis is actually a lot more savvy than it sounds. Hell's own hill Southover Street helpfully has five pubs on it to retire to for a much needed rest, with the Pub With No Name situated at the very top of both the hill and the billing. There is a lot to like about the place which seems to be popular with both families venturing out for Sunday lunch and weekend sports fans watching the match on the big screen. The mixture of the 2 groups is not always an easy alliance, but the welcoming nature of the pub and its well spread layout means that generally it is not a major problem. The drinks are relatively inexpensive compared to other places in the area and the food is popular too. Rating 8/10

11. Sir Charles Napier - Southover Street pubs seem to have something for everybody and the Sir Charles Napier is the pub for the more traditional alehouse drinker and it generally serves an older clientele. It is renowned as a pub that is a keen supporter of real ale and so several of the beers available on tap are relatively unheralded regional ales. This makes the pub very popular in CAMRA pub guides and the like and it does have the feel of a local's local. Those that are looking for a bit more vibrancy and action, however, will find that this place is not for them. Quirky, but not really a pub for the fashionistas. Rating 5/10

12. Dover Castle - Situated on the next turning down from the Sir Charles Napier, the Dover Castle is the complete antithesis. This is very much a student oriented pub and it does not have the spit and sawdust feel that its near neighbour has. This makes it off-putting for some, but I think it actually works to its advantage. The pub used to get (and I imagine still does) very busy on Friday and Saturday nights and it has certain parallels with the London Unity in its vibrancy and liking for DJs. Like other pubs in Hanover, it is the kind of pub that you would have a couple of drinks in rather than stay for a whole evening, but it is not a bad starting point for an evening out. Rating 6/10

13. The Greys - Alehouse fanatics in the area will know that The Greys is situated directly opposite The Geese and that the two pubs have what might be termed as a friendly rivalry. The Greys tends to be quite popular with the local culture vultures and the pub has been known to put on both live music and have poetry evenings. I have only visited the place a couple of times myself, but was quite struck by how unspoilt the place was. For those that want to avoid pubs with televisions, music and pub games, The Greys is the perfect antidote for you and it also has a highly acclaimed kitchen. Not been back for a while, but it is no indictment on the pub. Rating 7/10

14. The Geese - Directly opposite The Greys and generally attracts a younger audience and is particularly popular when live football is shown at the venue. Word of warning though, the place can sometimes get quite cramped on such days, not helped by how small and narrow the gangway is around by the bar. Traditionally an Irish pub, you can always be certain of a decent pint of Guinness at The Geese, which always goes down well with me. There just seems to be a missing ingredient to this place that I cannot quite put my finger on and so I tend to visit other pubs in the area as a rule. Rating 5/10

15. The Albion Inn - Albion Hill has four pubs situated on it, if you include the Walmer Castle at the very top of the road. Sadly, there is little to recommend in any of them and one visit to The Albion Inn was more than enough for me. My experience of visiting was similar to the one I experienced at the Cobden Arms and again it is the very definition of the locals' local. But even the locals seem to have deserted the place now. If you have never visited the pub, count yourself fortunate. Rating 1/10

16. Spread Eagle - There is one thing I liked about this pub and that was the colour of the exterior, a rich shade of green. Apart from that, there is very little else to recommend about the pub just further down from the aforementioned Albion Inn. The pub has become a victim of the recession and has been closed for several months. Forgive my churlishness, but I doubt anyone has noticed. Rating 1/10

17. The Setting Sun - For people that like a settle in a beer garden on a summer's afternoon, I cannot think of a pub garden anywhere in Brighton or Hove that is better to chill out in. Situated at the top of a steep hill, you can view all of Brighton's famous landmarks whilst sitting in the Setting Sun's beer garden. Like the Walmer Castle, this place used to be a hair of the dog location on a Sunday morning after the Saturday night before. The pub can be almost deserted on school nights, but it tends to flourish at weekends during the summer months. Has friendly bar staff and a homely feel to the pub as though you are sitting in someone's living room. If spicy food is your thing, this place always used to tick the boxes too. Not been back for a while, but should imagine it still retains its best features. Rating 7/10

18. The Cuthbert - This pub is no longer called The Cuthbert and has recently been turned into a gastro-pub, which I must admit seems like a curious decision given its location in a residential area between Queens Park and Craven Vale. The old Cuthbert was a slightly strange pub, mixing local hardened drinkers with young families wanting to make use of the beer garden. The garden was by far the best feature of the pub, being both spacious and also providing good views of Craven Vale and the Whitehawk hills. The pub was never the most welcoming of places and it will be interesting to see how its successor does given that its location means it will not draw that many clientele from outside the area. Rating 5/10 (as The Cuthbert)

19. The Cornerstone - This is a pub that has had a number of name changes over the years, starting out as The Admrial Napier, before becoming The Flying Pig and then The Sun before finally settling on its current name around 4 or 5 years ago. The Cornerstone is quite a cosy pub to retire to of an evening and it has some comfortable seating as well as the opportunity to prop up the bar. Apart from background music, the venue does not really do mod-cons, but it relies on its clientele to provide the atmosphere. On a quiet night, it can seem quite flat. Far worse places in the area though. Rating 6/10

20. The Wellington - My hazy memory has some recollection of having visited this pub in Elm Grove just the once on the way home from work several years ago. I think I may have stopped for one drink, decided the place was so dull and then left. This is renowned as more of a traditional drinker's haven which tends to mean you will either love the place or give it a wide berth, depending on your viewpoint. As I have not returned since my only visit, you can see where I stand. Rating 3/10

Notable absentees: The Montreal Arms, The Winner, Freshfield Inn

BRIGHTON STATION/SEVEN DIALS

21. The Tin Drum - Local franchise The Tin Drum has 4 or 5 pubs in the Brighton area where it differentiates itself from the traditional type of pub by offering table service for both drinks and food. The Tin Drum's origins are Polish and this is reflected in both their food menu and some of the drinks available from the bar. The place is a little bit on the expensive side, and food wise, they are not always the most generous with their portions. But, the service is always friendly, it is a pub you can retire to with your laptop to finish your work and there are also a good range of books and newspapers to choose from and a couple of leather sofas to recline on. A trip for fried breakfast on a Saturday morning while reading the Saturday supplements is recommended. Rating 7/10

22. The Crescent - Pub situated next to the Streamline taxi office on Clifton Hill and which is a popular after-work haunt for people working in the area. Has the feel of a very traditional pub with snug style seating in areas of the pub, plus a reasonably sized beer garden with further seating on the pavement at the front of the pub. People that tend to take the 'less is more' attitude with regards to pubs will probably warm to this place. Rating 7/10

23. The Good Companions - Here is a pub that holds many memories for me. I used to go to sixth form college just up the road and so many a free period in my college days was spent in this pub. Purely in the name of research, you will understand. Fast forward eight years and this pub would become my local, once I moved to the Seven Dials area. At first, the pub had not changed at all in the intervening period and still in fact had the same owners. In the five and a half years I have resided in the area since though, the pub has gone through three changes of ownership and two refits, in a bid to rid itself of undesirable customers. The latest change of ownership has seen the pub discontinue its showing of Sky Sports, which I think may prove to detrimental to its revenues at weekends. A pub with plenty of potential, if only it could attract the right customers. Also a pub where the earth regularly moves, owing the Hove to Brighton railway line going straight under the pub, hence the train on the sign outside. Rating 6/10

24. The Chimney House (formerly the Marquess of Exeter) - As the Marquess of Exeter, I visited this establishment on my final day at sixth form college when the pub resembled a place that time forgot with its dishevelled carpet and portable television. A decade later, I returned to discover that the Marquess was no more and that the pub had become a gastro-pub by the name of The Chimney House. The pub seemed pleasant enough, although a little bit short on atmosphere. I have not been back again since, but I would regard this to be a pub that is most suitable for having a couple of leisurely drinks and a spot of lunch in at the weekend. Rating 6/10 as Chimney House, 3/10 as Marquess of Exeter

25. Shakespeare's Head - There are 2 pubs in Brighton by this name, but the superior pub is the one located just down the hill from the Seven Dials. Although the pub is not the biggest place and subsequently it can get rather cramped on weekend nights, the pub retains some good qualities. Top of the list being its food menu, with the pub particularly noted for its sausage menu. I can also vouch for the good quality of their Sunday roasts. Although a compact pub, it is a pleasant place to relax over a pint or five and a popular venue for works drinks. Rating 7/10

26. The West Hill (formerly The Belle Vue) - This pub changed its name around eighteen months ago having previously been long established as the Belle Vue. As the Belle Vue, the venue was well renowned as being one of the few conventional pubs with a late licence at weekends, usually closing at 3 am on Friday and Saturday nights. I am not sure if this remains the case, but previously this resulted in the pub being vibrant and busy in the early hours, but conversely, it would be empty during daylight hours. Due to doing its best trade in the small hours, this occasionally meant the pub got a few people that had not paced themselves well by the end of the evening. Being a pub that stayed open late though was the main selling point, otherwise there were no outstanding features. Rating 5/10

27. Zuma - The site of a former bank at the Seven Dials junction, this kind of has the feel of a "trendy wine bar", with a quirky and arty feel to the way in which the bar is laid out. From recollection, the drinks there were a little bit on the pricey side, but the place seemed reasonably popular with a good mix of people present. Rating 5/10

28. Couch/The Rat & Trumpet - Back in the mists of time, this place just down from Seven Dials was called The Compton Arms and had a reputation for being a trouble spot. Subsequently, the pub has gone on to have three re-brandings, the latest of which sees it called 'Foggs'. As Couch and The Rat and Trumpet, the venue very rarely seemed to attract regular punters and lacked the friendly charm that the best pubs in the area have. The challenge as 'Foggs' remains in its location and I cannot see the new name making this hostelry any more appealing. Rating 2/10

29. The Battle of Trafalgar - One of my favourite retreats in my part of town, The Battle of Traf is the ideal 'hair of the dog' pub in the Dials/station area. The pub has a couple of in-house chefs and the pub is particularly well known for its Sunday roasts, which this author has sampled on several occasions. Apart from one minor criticism at the chef's penchant for peas, there is little fault to find in the Battle's menu. The pub has a homely feel with a round dining table in one corner, plus a cosy fireplace surrounded by some old hardback books. If the fireplace is the vantage point of choice in winter, then the beer garden is the place to be in summer and it is one of the best beer gardens to have a cool beer with your friends in the warmer months. A very good pub for all seasons and occasions. Rating 9/10

30. Sussex Yeoman - The Sussex Yeoman is located directly opposite the Trafalgar and is another pub well regarded for its food menu. I first encountered this pub when I was at university and ended up in there one day after lectures. Since those days, the pub has tidied itself up after it had a re-fit when it changed hands a few years ago. The pub has got some comfortable seating and is generally a busy and popular haunt on a Friday or Saturday night. There are other pubs I prefer in the area, but the Yeoman has a lot going for it. Rating 6/10

31. The Eddy - Another pub that has had a few names in its time, although in my drinking years, it has mainly been known as The Eddy or its predecessor, The Tap & Spile. I did not sample the pub when it was the Tap & Spile, but as The Eddy, the pub has carved itself a niche as a pub that attracts young professional types and as a sports bar with a big screen, it tends to be at its busiest on Sunday afternoons for big football matches. The Eddy also has an extensive food menu, although I have not eaten there myself. A decent pub and for those that are looking for somewhere to watch televised football at the weekend, this offers a plausible option. Rating 6/10

32. Duke of Wellington - Sometimes there are pubs that you become attached to and which add up to more than the sum of their parts. The Duke is one such place. In some senses, the pub defies convention because the only food it serves are pizzas, plus sandwiches and baguettes on Brighton & Hove Albion match days, whose supporters frequent the pub pre-kick off, while its beer garden is essentially a very small patio. Where the pub scores high though is in terms of its welcoming charm. When I was first introduced to the pub over 10 years ago by a university friend, the pub was a family run pub with a close knit set of regulars who would very quickly learn your name. Only one member of the family remains involved in running the pub and some of the regulars of yesteryear have moved on to be replaced by some new faces, but the Duke has retained its character. The pub had a major refit three and a half years ago and lost some of its regulars in the aftermath. However, the Duke has gradually rediscovered its mojo and is always a good place to prop up the bar and watch televised sport. Its Sunday night quiz nights are good craic too. Definitely one for the shortlist of best Brightonian boozers. Rating 9/10

33. Caxton Arms - Here is a pub that is a good example of a hidden gem tucked up a Brighton backstreet. This is another place with fond memories for me as it was the location of my works leaving do after leaving my previous job after six and a half years. Situated in the road that runs parallel to Queens Road, this pub's name pays homage to the man who invented the printing press and there are little decorative props in the pub that pay further homage. The pub has 2 bar rooms, with the back room also having a pool table and book case and has also occasionally had a television screen. In addition, the Caxton offers a range of traditional British pub grub until 9:00 pm most nights. Despite being in a backstreet, this pub gets very busy after work on a Friday night and is also popular at weekends. That is a sign of the Caxton's quality and I always look forward to a visit there. Rating 9/10

34. Royal Standard - This is a tiny pub that is situated on Queens Road just down from Brighton station. I have some recollection of a visit to this pub on St Patrick's Day a decade ago when they were serving Irish stew. The stew was delicious, but subsequent visits to the Royal Standard have been somewhat underwhelming. Generally, the pub seems to be pretty empty and lacking life. Because of its size, there is possibly not much that can be done to revitalise this pub, but it certainly seems as though it needs a new lease of life. Rating 3/10

35. The Queens Head - In terms of geography, this pub probably just wins the award for being the nearest pub to Brighton station, although there are 2 or 3 other pubs that can state a legitimate claim too. I broke my duck in visiting this pub earlier this year and was quite impressed with it, with the staff being friendly and the seating being comfortable, while the drinks were reasonably priced. There are other pubs in the vicinity that I prefer, but for a post-work drink near to the station, the Queens Head has a relaxing charm that makes it suitable for that occasion. Rating 6/10

36. The Railway Bell - For those of you that have not visited The Railway Bell, consider yourselves lucky. I have visited only once and walked past many hundreds of times more and these experiences are enough to tell me that my life is not void from having not returned. Aggravation seems to go hand in hand with the pub and the staff I encountered when I went there did not go out of their way to be welcoming. I have not returned for several years, but accounts I hear from others I have spoken to indicate that the place has not improved with advancing years. Rating 1/10

37. Grand Central - There are not many pubs around that can boast a theatre being upstairs, but the Grand Central is one such place. It was (and I guess still is) notable for having a roof terrace that was worth putting the world to rights in on a sunny summer's day. Inside, the pub is a little bit on the flat side and lacks some of the atmosphere that a more traditional pub tends to have. Not bad, but not great either. Rating 5/10

38. The Windmill - I remember this pub as being unique in the sense that I cannot think of any pub that had a red telephone box in its beer garden. Not sure if the box is still in the garden, but it was certainly different. The Windmill is located along Upper North Street and so tends to attract a mix of people from Seven Dials, as well as people working nearby in Western Road. The pub has a low ceiling and because of this, getting a mobile phone signal there is always a challenge. The pub has a bit edge to it which makes it not to everyone's taste, but it is decent enough to go to for a couple of pints. Rating 6/10

39. Prestonville Arms - Quiet Youngs pub situated in a backstreet between the Seven Dials and Old Shoreham Road, this is the kind of place that you could go to for a peaceful pint in midweek. I think the pub used to run a music quiz night on one night of the week that gained a cult following. I have only been there on a couple of occasions, but it seemed like a decent enough local pub, but it is a little bit out of the way for me to frequent. Rating 5/10

40. The Dyke Tavern - The curious thing about Brighton is that one area of town that is chronically lacking in pubs is the Withdean and Westdene area and so on one occasion, after having been to watch Brighton play at Withdean Stadium, in trying to find a pub showing the evening match, I had to walk all the way down Dyke Road to the Dyke Tavern before I found a suitable resting place. Apart from having a big screen, there was little reason for me to have visited the pub, which had a strange mix of customers and looked in need of a few licks of paint. Subsequently, the pub has had a makeover and is another to go down the route of targetting gastro-heads. I have no particular desire to return, however. Rating 2/10

Notable absentees: The Evening Star


This completes part 1 of my pub crawl. In part 2, I will mention which North Laine and town centre pubs I have visited, before moving on to the Hove pubs in my later instalments.